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“Sparkle: the rules of giving jewellery this Christmas - The Guardian” plus 2 more

“Sparkle: the rules of giving jewellery this Christmas - The Guardian” plus 2 more


Sparkle: the rules of giving jewellery this Christmas - The Guardian

Posted: 11 Dec 2018 12:00 AM PST

Money is no object (even when it is)

Look, I'm not pretending diamond earrings wouldn't be nice. But the days when jewellery was just hard currency in sparkly form are over. Costume jewellery isn't about fake jewels any more, it is desirable in its own right. Most women who wear jewellery buy it for themselves, change it frequently and love getting it for gifts. You can get fun jewellery on the high street for a tenner and longer-term jewellery-box treasures for well under £100. So a pair of earrings or a necklace isn't just a landmark birthday present any more – it might be the answer for your aunt or your office secret Santa or your kid's year-three teacher. Try Zara: I love these black velvet teardrops dangling from beaten-gold domes studded with black rhinestones, for £12.99.

Velvet teardrops from Zara, £12.99.
Velvet teardrops from Zara, £12.99.

The snowman earring is the new mismatched earring

If you are buying an earring as a fashion gift, listen up. The shape to look for now is the snowman: a large oval below a smaller circle. The Zara ones I mentioned above, for instance. The shapes can be smooth and symmetrical, like the tortoiseshell-speckled clear beaded double drops at Cos for £19. Or they can be dented and grooved in the modern organic style, like the beaded clusters hanging from burnished brass studs that are £17.99 at Mango. If those seem a bit outre, another on-trend option is anything seaside-themed. Blooming Dreamer makes jewellery from real shells; I am a bit obsessed with their Sea of Love pendant, a gold-edged scallop shell on a fine gold chain, for £60. There are very cute gold seashell studs for £13 at & Other Stories. A gold medallion on a pendant is another chic option. The ultimate are by Alighieri, this year's name to drop in the jewellery world, and cost about £200.

Gold seashell studs from & Other Stories.
Gold seashell studs from & Other Stories, £13.

Do a little sleuthing

You don't have to root around in her underwear drawer, you just have to look at her. Does she wear big earrings? Lots of bracelets? A different necklace every day? This will give you a steer. If you're already in the shops reading this in a panic and can't remember if she has pierced ears, text her best friend; if she doesn't get back to you, then Monica Vinader's sustainable, ethically sourced jewellery, as worn by Emma Watson and the Duchess of Cambridge, is a failsafe choice. An 18-carat gold-plated adjustable-sized chain link bracelet with a moonstone is £115.

A teeny box from a big name makes a super fancy special present

If what she would really love is a Valentino dress or a Saint Laurent blazer or a Gucci sweater, but your budget doesn't stretch to four figures, fashion jewellery makes a brilliant gift. Gucci's faux-pearl bee-stud earrings, £270 from Net-a-Porter, are a modern classic. Don't overthink the choice; recognisable is good. Valentino's logo hoops are £340 at matchesfashion.com and Balenciaga's silk-ribbon-wrapped pair is £325. The outsize YSL initial earrings as seen on the catwalk are sold out everywhere, but the mini brass tassel version can be found on Farfetch for £260. Smartest of all, Vestiaire Collective is a treasure trove of pre-owned, certified-real designer jewellery: a pair of Chloe-branded bow-shaped studs for £63.17, for instance.

Avoid rings if there is any potential for conflict

I hope this is blindingly obvious but, just in case, bear in mind that if there is the slightest scope for disappointment or confusion about what the giving of a ring may or may not signify, do everyone a favour and stick to earrings. Rings are tricky to give anyway, because a ring that doesn't fit is as useful as a pair of shoes that doesn't fit, and most of us don't even know our own ring sizes, let alone anyone else's. If you have access to a ring that fits, you can use dental floss to measure the inside circumference, then compare it to an online ring sizer to get the size (a letter) that you need. If you have the size, a signet ring is the newer, cooler take on the cocktail ring. Astley Clarke's rose-gold plated signet ring with lace agate is an absolute corker for £110.

H&M gold-plated necklace, £49.99.
H&M gold-plated necklace, £49.99.

Beware the strong and stable necklace

2018 was the year Theresa May killed the statement necklace. The PM's dogged commitment to her outsize silver Amanda Wakeley chain, from which she deviates only as far as similarly chunky strong-and-stable strings of faux pearls or Conservative-blue giant beads, has aligned what was once a power-dressing staple with a political year to forget. However, long-term thinkers might like to note that, possibly thanks to the May association, the chunky chain is the only jewellery item not sold out from the Moschino x H&M collection. At £49.99 for full-fat gold-plated bling, it could turn out to be a sound fashion investment.

Hoops work at any age

Some jewellery has an age bracket. Friendship bracelets are great for teenagers; brooches tend to skew post-50. Hoops work for everyone. Kate Spade's large faux-pearl hoops are currently reduced from £60 to £39. Marks & Spencer has a cute stocking-filler pearl-studded mini hoop for £7.50. Christmas decorations? Baubles for the tree are all very well. But baubles for your nearest and dearest – or for you – are best of all.

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Rock the Game of Thrones spirit with this Cartier dragon watch - South China Morning Post

Posted: 29 Apr 2019 10:01 PM PDT

[unable to retrieve full-text content]Rock the Game of Thrones spirit with this Cartier dragon watch  South China Morning Post

Dragons are the ultimate evil fantasy creature in Western mythology: winged, fire-breathing and dangerous to know – just watch Game of Thrones for proof.

4 Women Jewelry Makers in the Hudson Valley - Chronogram

Posted: 15 Nov 2018 12:00 AM PST

click to enlarge Vertebrae Necklace, Marisa Lomonaco
  • Vertebrae Necklace, Marisa Lomonaco

Like most trades, goldsmithing and stonesetting—indeed fashion at large—were historically male-dominated. In the 20th Century, relentless innovators like Coco Chanel, Suzanne Belperron, and Jeanne Toussaint infiltrated the world of fashion and jewelry, paving the way for the influx of female designers, jewelers, and goldsmiths we see today.

The Hudson Valley has no shortage of talented craftspeople in every medium from woodworking to ceramics. A few weeks ago, we shared 4 local jewelers that should be on your radar (several of which were women). But with the holidays coming up and Valentine's Day not too far behind that, we thought you could always do with more inspiration. So here are four more jewelers who are putting the Hudson Valley on the map—all women, all wildly fresh and creative, all producing sparkling wonders right here.

Marisa Lomonaco

Beacon
Marissalomonaco.com
click to enlarge Facet Ring, Marisa Lomonaco
  • Facet Ring, Marisa Lomonaco
Originally from the Albany area, Lomonaco studied sculpture at Ithaca College. "The most exciting thing I did there was metal casting," she says. A few weeks after graduation, she was offered a job at Tallix, an art foundry then in Beacon, where she received a highly technical education in methods of casting, processing, and finishing metal. "An artist brings in a design and we figure out how to make, it," she says. "While working there, I started building my own line of jewelry. When you see how sculpture is created on that scale, it's literally impossible to do without a group of people; you need a lot of hands."

She preferred the intimate process of making her jewelry and "just being able to have your hands in every piece of the process and know that the thing that you created, you created all of it." Mostly using lost-wax casting, Lomonaco makes replicas of found and natural objects (kelp, pieces of fish vertebrae, fish tails, and coral) as well as geometric shapes, such as a Brancusi-inspired bracelet. Lomonaco is also experimenting with cutting edge technology, doing direct casting from 3D-printed waxes.

click to enlarge Alligator Cuff Bracelet, Marisa Lomonaco
  • Alligator Cuff Bracelet, Marisa Lomonaco
"I like to think of my style as very clean and minimal but always with some unexpected twist to it, whether it's form or texture. Patterns in nature inspire me, but my work can be really geometric, too." Her work is sold in various Hudson Valley shops as well as in her Beacon studio, which is half workshop and half showcase. "You see the hammers and the tools and all the stuff that makes the thing you're buying. Everyone tells me that connection and seeing the way things are made is the best part of working with me."

Rebecca Peacock

45 North Front Street, Kingston
Rebeccapeacock.com
click to enlarge Pine Needle Ring, Rebecca Peacock
  • Pine Needle Ring, Rebecca Peacock
Peacock, who grew up in Woodstock, spent a decade in California before making her way back to her home ground. In a sense, things have come full circle. "My mother had a fine fragrance shop in Woodstock," she says, "and now I have a store in Kingston." That is where she sells her handmade work, which she describes as "minimal, simple, and straightforward"—fine metal and gemstone pieces such as a delicate pine-needle ring, ethereal wire hoops, and tiny bar studs with a line of micro-pave black diamonds (she sells a few other designers here, too).
click to enlarge Micro-pave black diamond earrings, Rebecca Peacock
  • Micro-pave black diamond earrings, Rebecca Peacock
Her work studio is in a 19th-Century farmhouse overlooking a babbling creek, with chickens, her namesake peacocks (of course), and angora rabbits hopping about the premises. "I feel lucky that I grew up here and these are the types of things I come back to," she says. These days, with the multitude of wedding venues locally, she finds herself making lots of wedding bands and engagement rings. "My favorite part of doing this is the connections with people and the stories about love," she says. "In my work I get to talk about love, which is rare. I get to hear about how everyone met and what brought them together." Buy her work online or visit the storefront 45 North Front Street, Kingston.

Melissa Easton

Callicoon
Melissaeastonjewelry.com  
click to enlarge melissa_easton_55r-d_ring_skinnyrect_w_6diamonds_pv_01_1024x1024.jpg

Easton is an industrial designer (home goods, flatware, tableware, mostly) who used this professional know-how when starting to make jewelry. She carves the wax models at home in Callicoon, sends them to NYC to be cast, and then finishes them in her Sullivan County abode.
Originally a New Yorker living in bustling Chinatown, Easton was desperate to get out of the city some 20 years ago. She rented a car (despite not being much of a driver) and came upstate with her husband, looking to see some leaves. In short order, she and her husband found a rental in the Western Catskills, where they started spending summers. Twenty years ago, they bought it, moving up permanently. Peacock got into the bling biz because, as an inherently bad primper, she wanted pieces—a chunky ring, stud earrings—she'd wear every day and never take off. "I was driven to create something to fill the void," she says. "That was the beginning of it." 
click to enlarge Tiny Sundrop Flower Posts, Melissa Easton
  • Tiny Sundrop Flower Posts, Melissa Easton
Her signet-style rings (which she prefers to leave blank; though she works with an engraver), delicate bands, and tiny-flower post earrings aren't "so flashy," she says. "People don't buy my jewelry impulsively. It doesn't scream at you; it eats at you. People will come back again and again before finally deciding."  That's okay with this minimalist.
click to enlarge Square Hexagonal Ridged Ring, Melissa Easton
  • Square Hexagonal Ridged Ring, Melissa Easton
"I really don't want people to keep buying jewelry and swapping out jewelry. I love seeing someone 90-years-old wearing a ring they clearly haven't taken off. it's like part of their hand." Buy her work on her site, at MayerWasner boutique in Narrowsburg, and at Sawkill in Rhinebeck.

Estyn Hulbert

Ellenville
Estynhulbert.com
Bullet Cuff - 8 Row Toned & Bronze, Estyn Hulbert
  • Bullet Cuff - 8 Row Toned & Bronze, Estyn Hulbert
A fine arts major in college who studied graphic design and sculpture, Hulbert came from a long line of artists, including her grandfather, the illustrator behind the beloved original Charlotte's Web and Stuart Little drawings. After graduation, she apprenticed with her respected jewelry-designer aunt, Jessica Rose, in NYC (Rose created collections for Issey Miyake and Yves St. Laurent).

Hulbert was living in Brooklyn when she realized, "I was done with the city, like so many people," she says. Not knowing "much about the community," she fell in love with an 1840s farmhouse with a barn located in the Borscht Belt village of Ellenville and moved there full time. 

Long Chain & Pearl Drop Necklace - Peacock Pearl, Estyn Hulbert
  • Long Chain & Pearl Drop Necklace - Peacock Pearl, Estyn Hulbert

Hulbert makes her own designs, as well as those of her aunt's, and sells them in shops around the U.S. and in England and France. Her designs specialize in pearls and colorful gemstones; there are earrings with curtains of gold chains in descending arrows and cuffs with gold "bullets" that move when touched. Hulbert loves the profusion of artists around her in Ulster County, and has a regular artists' group (they work in fiber, paper, yarn) . "They're kind of hidden in the woods making things," she says, "so it can take us a little while to find each other."

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