Riccardo To Versace: The Sticking Point?

While many publications and industry insiders are positively salivating at the prospect of Riccardo Tisci’s mooted appointment at Versace, the news has not come our way just yet – so why the delay? Despite many speculating that the deal is a foregone conclusion, shoppers may have a wait on their hands to grab the first Versace by Tisci pieces thanks to the industry’s ubiquitous use of non-compete clauses.

A non-compete clause exists in the employment contracts for many top-level roles, in fashion as well as other industries, and prohibits the employee from working in a similar role in a company deemed to be in competition with the one they are departing. These clauses exist primarily to protect the company’s confidential material, but have the added effect of making high-profile designers and executives less desirable to poach if they’re not able to begin a new role for six or even 12 months.

Although he never addressed it directly, Nicolas Ghesquière assumed his position at Louis Vuitton a year and a day after departing Balenciaga and, while the timing could be seen to be a coincidence, other designers have spoken about the existence of such a contractual obligation. A recent musical chairs situation between designers at Nike and Adidas revealed that Nike operates a non-compete of one year, since teams are working on secret designs that won’t be released for several years to come. Raf Simons was linked with the job he now occupies at Calvin Klein in the weeks following his Dior departure, but didn’t take the reins for some nine months – a situation that sources reported was also down to a non-compete.

So what will happen now if, indeed, a non-compete clause is in place? Tisci could wait it out - as many speculated Hedi Slimane did after leaving Dior Homme before joining Yves Saint Laurent – occupying himself with other creative outlets, from styling to photography. He could make dresses independently for his gaggle of famous friends – creating red-carpet gowns under his own name for the likes of Kim Kardashian and Naomi Campbell, in a similar way to John Galliano’s creation of Kate Moss’s wedding dress before he joined Masion Margiela, and therefore avoid "competing" since they wouldn't be for sale.

Or there is always the chance that Givenchy might release him from such an obligation, allowing him to assume another role more quickly than originally agreed, as YSL did for Slimane, but this comes with its own problems: Slimane appealed for the clause to be reinstated when Kering released him from it, along with the financial remunerations that go with it. Whatever happens, a lengthy holiday is surely in his future after 12 years uninterrupted service at the French house – and we hear his friend Donatella, who has Versace hotels in locations from Australia to Dubai, is a fabulous host.